2016 Bordeaux at the Cité du Vin
In early June I had the opportunity to attend a horizontal tasting of three classified-growth wines of the 2016 vintage, each representing a different appellation and region. This was a fascinating exercise in which the variations of terroir could be experienced directly, and it was extremely educational as well as highly enjoyable.
Château Malartic-Lagravière, Pessac-Léognan Grand Cru: Visually it showed clear medium garnet in the glass, with more evolution in hue than the wines from the Médoc and Saint-Émilion. The nose was clean with medium+ intensity; on the palate the wine was dry, with medium+ acidity, medium+ tannin, medium alcohol, medium+ body, pronounced intensity. Aromas and flavors included cassis, blackberry, stone fruit, licorice and freshly-cut wood for very good complexity. The wine persisted on the palate with a long finish of nearly 30 seconds. This is an absolutely lovely wine, without being a blockbuster; I scored the wine 93 points. I believe this wine will drink best over the next 5-10 years. Current pricing in Bordeaux is in the low-60-euro range.
Château Soutard, Saint-Émilion Grand Cru Classé: In the glass this wine showed as clear deep ruby as one would expect of an excellent 10-year-old Left Bank classified growth. The nose was clean with pronounced intensity; the palate was dry, with with high acidity and tannin, alcohol just high, exhibiting full body and pronounced intensity. Aromas and flavors included black and red plums, bing and tart cherries, red appleskin and a touch of mint, for an impression of excellent complexity. This wine was both persistent and insistent with a finish in excess of one minute. I scored this wine at 95 points; in my view an outstanding wine with plenty of life yet, perhaps 10 to 20 additional years of aging remaining. I tasted this wine later in the summer with consistent notes. Current pricing in Bordeaux is in the high-50-euro range, which I regard as exceptional value.
Château Beychevelle, a Quatrième Grand Cru of the Médoc, lately punches well above that level, and this wine exemplified why. In the glass this displayed clear deep ruby. The nose was clean with pronounced intensity; on the palate the wine was dry, with high acidity and tannin, full body and pronounced intensity; alcohol was medium. Aromas and flavors included cassis, blackberry, licorice, black pepper, vanilla, baking spices and just a touch of green pepper, with a long finish. I scored this wine 98 points initially; this is a sexy beast indeed that looks to spend more time in the cellar. After reflection I would likely moderate the score to 96 points, which still makes this wine an excellent value at pricing in the neighborhood of 130 euros per bottle. Highly recommended.
